A Guide to Indian Gold Jewelry Terminology

ndian gold jewelry is more than just adornment, it’s an expression of culture, heritage, and identity. From the ornate mangalsutra to delicate jhumka earrings, each piece tells a story rooted in tradition, region, and ritual. But if you’ve ever found yourself overwhelmed by the vast range of terms, like kundan, kamarband, or meenakari, you’re not alone.

This reference provides detailed descriptions for some of the most popular and culturally important terms regarding Indian gold jewelry. Whether you’re shopping for a bridal set, browsing through heirloom pieces, or simply fascinated by classic design elements and language used in creating these beautiful arts, you have come to the right place.

We’ve grouped the terminology by jewelry category, necklaces, earrings, pendants, bangles, rings, feet & waist jewelry, nose jewelry, and craft techniques, so you can navigate the world of Indian jewelry with clarity and confidence.

Let’s dive into the language of gold, one jewel at a time:

Head & Hair Jewelry

Maang Tikka

 

The maang tikka is one of the most iconic pieces of Indian bridal jewelry. This is worn in the central parting of your hair and rests on your forehead, and it has a decorative pendant attached to a slim chain, often securely fixed into the hairline. In Hindu belief, the tika rests over the ajna chakra, which symbolizes wisdom and spiritual awakening. It's most often made from gold and sometimes enhanced with kundan, polki, pearls, or gemstones. Brides often match their maang tikka with their necklaces for completing their looks.

Matha Patti

Another similar but more decorative form of maang tikka is the matha patti, which is similar but includes decorative chains at either side of the maang tikka. At its core, it is similar in design to the maang tikka but adds an element of royalty with its sides. Matha pattis are generally for weddings but specifically for elaborate looks for brides, especially for North Indian and Mughal weddings. The matha patti looks stunning for balancing heavy outfits such as lehengas or sarees.

Borla

Borla is a kind of traditional Rajasthani forehead ornament shaped as a small spherical bell or dome. It is usually more minimalist in design compared to other tikkas. It is usually placed high above the forehead and consists of uncut diamonds or gold filigree work. Though the borla is predominantly worn during weddings by Marwari and Rajasthani brides, its antique charm has gained broader appeal in modern Indian fashion.

Jhoomar (Passa)

The jhoomar, also referred to as passa, is a sideward-swept headpiece traditionally kept on the left side of the head. The Mughal design of this jhoomar features a sideward flow from the region of the temples, enhancing bridal hairstyles. The jhoomar, crafted from golden materials and embellished with pearls and/or diamonds, can be paired effectively with Central Maang Tikka styles for a fusion of bridal looks. More especially, jhoomars have found favor in Punjabi and Hyderabadi bridal styles, and they would be an outstanding choice in modern bridal styles

Earrings

Jhumka

 

The jhumka is a classic symbol of Indian elegance and sophistication, which is widely identified for its bell or top shape dangling from the end of the earlobe. These earrings are mostly adorned with intricate gold work, which makes them an essential choice for festive occasions. Derived from the Southern part of the country, jhumkas have evolved to all the regions in the country to become an integral part of the traditional Indian look. From a vibrant bridal creation to a lightweight and casual jhumka, the traditional appeal is evident in all jhumkas.

Chandbali

Inspired by the crescent moon, the chandbali gets its name from “chand” (moon) and “bali” (earring). These earrings curve gently below the earlobe and often feature multiple tiers of embellishments including uncut diamonds (polki), kundan, or pearls. Popularized during the Mughal era, chandbalis exude a regal aura and are often worn with Anarkalis, lehengas, or sarees for grand occasions. Their layered structure creates a dramatic yet graceful silhouette.

Bali

A bali is a traditional hoop earring, which is circular in form and often thicker than the now commonly worn hoops. Minimalist and intricate forms of gold balis are donned by men and women in all Indian communities. These ear rings are particularly favored in Maharashtra, Gujarat, and the southern regions of India. These can be either simple or embellished designs. They make for great everyday wear and can also be dressed up for the occasion.

Kaanchain

Kaanchains are delicate chains attached to the earring to extend into the hair. This protects the earring and distributes the weight of an extremely heavy earring. It adds to the visual appeal of an earring. Traditionally, kaanchains are worn as bridal or classical dance Jewelry. It goes into the hair, providing function as well as visual appeal. Made up of gold, it sometimes has small pearls or beads. It looks great cascading down the side of the face, providing an extra layer of complexity to the earring. This type of earring would come in handy when sporting extremely heavy Jhumkas or Chandbalis.

Kaan Phool

Literally meaning ‘ear flower,’ the kaan phool is a dramatic and ear-flowering cuff that spans the entire ear, usually worn for classical dancer presentations such as Bhartatanatyam and Odissi. This design hugs the ear, usually made out of gold and sometimes adorned with colorful stones, and the kaan phool has its traditional grounding in South India, with temple jewels and sometimes worn with vankis and traditional temple necklets.

Neck Jewelry

Mangalsutra

 

The mangalsutra is one of the most important ornaments at a Hindu marriage. Classically designed with black beads strung alongside gold, the mangalsutra is tied by the groom around the bride's neck during the wedding ceremony. These black beads are believed to keep evil away from the bonding of two souls. Though originally simple in design, the latest designs range from minimalist to diamond-studded pendants set in 18k gold. The styles also vary from region to region, and each has a different pendant with a different pattern, like Maharashtrian, South Indian, and North Indian.

Rani Haar

Literally meaning “queen’s necklace,” ranihaar is an elegant long layered necklace that declines below the chest region, which is normally donned for specific, grandeur situations. With origins in Indian royalties across history, an elegant rani haar normally consists of intricate work in gold, stones, and motifs inspired by temple art or Mughal styles. For specific bridal looks, ranihaar may also be accompanied by a smaller variety, which may add a stunning layered look.

Choker

A choker is a short necklace and fits well around the neck. The choker can be made of gold and studded with kundan, meenakari, polki, or gemstones. This type of choker is widely used for bridal and party wear and can be adorned with deep-necked blouses or lehengas. The choker may be plain and single-stranded or heavy and broad. The choker can be combined with earrings and neckpieces.

Aadh Necklace

The aadh necklace consists of a traditional Rajasthani choker. The Rajasthani choker has the reputation of being wide and detailed. This Rajasthani choker stretches wide over the upper part of the chest. This Rajasthani choker has the capability to frame the upper part entirely. The aadh consists entirely of Polki diamonds accompanied by the use of gold leaf and enamel on the reverse. Such Rajasthani aadh necklaces usually have the capability to tie with a cloth ribbon on the reverse.

Satlada

Satladas have seven sets of strings. It is related to the seven-string necklace, which comprises only pearls or golden balls. It usually comprises sets of gemstones or kundan earring sets. It gets inspiration from the Hyderabadi and Mughal empires. During that extravagant period, the seven-string necklace symbolized the style and kind of life the ruling parties were accustomed to. This necklace has mainly been worn for special occasions like weddings. It usually gets worn alone or with a choker necklace for the look of extravaganza.

Haar

The word "haar" refers to necklaces, but it is also used to describe traditional Indian gold necklaces of varied lengths and styles, such as a single strand of long necklace, a medium length of gold necklace set with a pendant, rani haar, satlada, etc. Both of these are quite basic in their meaning and show greatly diverse Indian tastes in jewelry.

Kasu Mala

Kasu mala, or kasulaperu in Telugu, is basically a South Indian necklace comprising small, coin-shaped discs made of gold joined together into one long chain. Indeed, on each coin, images of Goddess Lakshmi are stamped, representing prosperity and wealth. Being one of the must-wear bridal jewelers throughout Tamil Nadu, Kerala, and Karnataka, kasu malas are often passed down as heirloom pieces and worn during festivals and religious functions.

Gutta Pusalu

 

The design originated in the coastal region of Andhra. Gutta pusalu literally means beads and tassels. These necklaces have a distinguishing fringe made of small beads or pearls that hang on a gold chain studded with temple motifs. Gutta pusalu designs look dramatic and fashionable. Hence, they are a bride's first choice. These can include ruby, emerald, and pearl, adding a textured look to the overall design.

Mango Haram

 

The mango haram is a classic South Indian necklace that is easily identifiable by its repetitive designs of mangoes, which are meant to represent prosperity and fertility as well as the blessings of the gods. Typically made from gold with temple designs, the mango haram is a favorite in wedding jewelry and is a classic heirloom that is passed down from generation to generation.

Nakshi Haram

A nakshi haram is a statement South Indian necklace distinguished by detailed hand-carved gold work inspired by temple sculptures and mythological imagery. The word nakshi refers to this intricate engraving technique, which gives the jewelry a rich, antique appearance. Frequently worn for weddings and ceremonial occasions, nakshi harams reflect both artistic mastery and deep cultural heritage, making them treasured pieces in traditional bridal collections.

Pendants

Taviz (Taweez)

"Taviz," also known as "taweez" in other parts of the world, is an old-style pendant that is common in all parts of India and other nations in the Asian subcontinent. The pendant comes in a capsule form that contains sacred phrases, words, and other charms within it. The modern version of the taviz pendant comes in the gold variety in a capsule form and contains engraved patterns on it. The gold comes in the form of "22K gold," keeping both the heritage and elegance of the pendant within its structure, allowing it to be tied around the neck on a gold or black thread chain.

Lakshmi Pendant

 

Lakshmi pendants detailed carvings or castings of Goddess Lakshmi, the Hindu goddess of wealth, prosperity, and abundance. These are extremely popular in South Indian bridal jewelry, where they serve both a decorative and devotional purpose. Made in 22K gold, they could also be accented with ruby, emerald, or pearl, further enhancing the beauty. Lakshmi pendants can be worn either as part of a larger temple-style necklace or alone as a strung pendant for daily blessings.

Temple Pendant

Temple pendants take their inspiration from the intricate carvings and designs produced in temples located in South India. Temple pendants may carry designs of Hindu gods and goddesses like Lakshmi, Ganapati, or Krishna, done in antique gold finish and embedded with intricate designs. Temple pendants may carry kemp stones, peacocks, lotuses, and bells that may signify good luck and positive energy. Temple pendants can be worn on special occasions like festival times and weddings, sometimes even with kasu malas and guttapusalus.

Navratna Pendant

 

The Navratna pendant combines nine different gem stones that represent all nine celestial forms in Hindu astrology or Navagraha. Traditionally, a Navratna pendant consists of nine different precious stones: a ruby, a pearl, a piece of red coral, an emerald, a golden sapphire, a diamond, a blue sapphire, a hessonite, and a cat’s eye. Worn as a gold pendant, this symbolic pendant serves as a beautiful adornment and brings harmony in the life of the wearer by aligning nine different celestial forms in perfect harmony in terms of positive energy.

Bangles & Bracelets

Kada

 

A kada is a thick, circular bangle traditionally worn by both men and women. Rooted in Punjabi and Sikh culture, it has become a staple across India, symbolizing strength, unity, and tradition. Kadhas are often made of solid 22K gold or occasionally adorned with minimal etching or gemstone inlays. Worn solo for bold elegance or as a pair, they’re a versatile accessory that balances cultural heritage with modern minimalism.

Chudi

The word chudi describes slender bangles designed for use in multiple sets to create the beautifully symbolic and decorative sound of clinking. According to traditional North Indian custom, the new bride wears the full ensemble of red or gold-colored chudis to represent marital bliss. Gold chudis range from simple designs to more intricate patterns with textured, beaded, and colorful enamel looks. They are light enough to be stacked for the beautifully melodic sound of clinking.

Valayal

Valayal, meaning bangles in Tamil, is often used in South Indian terminology to denote traditional gold wristwear. Though serving a similar purpose as that of the chudi, valayals often feature certain South Indian aesthetics, such as temple motifs, coin patterns, or antique finishes. The word has a serious cultural resonance to it, often finding a place in classical songs and stories surrounding womanhood and adornment.

Pacheli

The pacheli is a wide, hinged bangle with an open end, usually worn in pairs. This form of bangle, originating as a part of Rajasthani royal jewelry, is highly intricate in terms of ornamentation, exemplifying meenakari, kundan, and various designs involving elephants, peahens, floral motifs, etc. These bangles are usually worn on special occasions, as they form an integral part of wedding jewelry, festivals, etc.

Bajuband (Armlet)

The bajuband is an ornamental band worn on the upper arm, popularly included in bridal sets of ornaments as well as classical dance costumes. Although these have normally been fashioned from gold and adorned with gemstones, pearls, or dangling ornaments, the contemporary version may also offer designs including filigree, Polki, or gemstones. These bajubands have also frequently been worn with sleeveless or short-sleeved attire to emphasize the appearance of the arm while elevating the style entirely with regal finesse and dignity.

 

Vanki (Arm Bracelet)

 

 

The vanki, also referred to as an arm bracelet, is a characteristic V-shaped accessory that is worn on the upper arm as a part of South Indian bridal jewelry. Unlike the bajuband, which has a rounded shape, the vanki has a sharp outline that frames the arm beautifully and is adorned with temple motifs, gems, or gold engravings. The vanki is traditionally a royal and classical dance accessory.

Gajra Bangles

Gajra bangles draw inspiration from floral garlands traditionally worn in the hair at weddings and festivals. These bangles mimic the softness of the petals through carved gold, enamel blossoms, or pearl bead arrangements. Gajra-style bangles are a popular style during weddings of South and West Indians, as these are usually paired with plain gold sets to bring on texture and movement, adding freshness to the attire symbolically.

Rings

Anguthi

Anguthi is the Hindi term for a ring, and it represents one of the oldest and most versatile forms of adornment in Indian jewelry. From a simple band to an ornate gold ring with gemstones, the anguthi has long held symbolic meaning in engagements, religious ceremonies, and even personal style. While the term is general, in conversation, it most often refers to traditional designs passed down through generations.

Cocktail Ring

 

A cocktail ring is a bold, oversized statement piece typically featuring a large central gemstone surrounded by detailing or smaller stones. First invented in the Art Deco era, Indian versions meld all that grandeur with Kundan and Polki and Meenakari work to result in extremely dramatic rings. These are worn solo to elevate both ethnic and contemporary wear. These are especially favored at weddings and galas and festive celebrations.

Polki Ring

Polki Rings are crafted with raw, uncut diamonds, giving them a raw look that appears regal yet classic. This raw look comes with the uncut diamonds being placed in the gold foil, encasing them with enamel or gems, while the traditional Kundan setting works at the back. Such rings can be termed classic pieces that are sought after to be worn on special days like weddings or anniversaries as a token of eternal love with a classical touch.

Toe Ring (Bichiya)

The Bichya, also referred to as Toe Ring, is a stylistic piece that holds great importance for married Hindu women across the nation. This piece is worn on the second toe on each foot. Bichya is made from metals like Silver or Gold, with simple wire bands, intricate designs, bell, or flowers. In Hindu Culture, Bichya is an integral part of the dowry received during Hindu weddings, symbolizing commitment for a long time, fertility, and longevity.

Feet & Waist Jewelry

Payal (Anklet)

 

Payal, or anklet, is a timeless piece of Indian jewelry worn around the ankle. It comes in pairs and traditionally consists of either silver or gold pieces. It could either be simple and chained or elaborate with bells, ghungroos, or elaborate motifs. The soft tinkling sound that payals begin is symbolic in Indian culture and represents grace, femininity, and goodness. It transcends all ages and forms a common marriage and "coming of age"-themed present.

Bichiya (Toe Ring)

A bichiya is more than just foot jewelry; it is a symbol for married women belonging to the Hindu faith. These toe rings usually grace the second toe of both feet and are adorned in silver or gold, often plain and sometimes intricately carved with floral patterns, meenakari, and stones. Though bichiyas have their roots in tradition, they have also become a feature in contemporary bridal trousseaus.

Kamarband (Vaddanam)

 

Kamarband, also known as Vaddanam, in South India is an exquisite waist belt worn over a saree or lehengas that has the potential to adorn the wearer's look while providing a regal touch to the marriage garments of the bride. Kamarbands can be thin and elegant or thick and heavily adorned with elements like temple adornment, pearls, and colored gems. This waist adornment in several Indian marriages represents femininity, grace, and richness while being a treasured heirloom piece in several families.

Nupur

Nupur is another regional term for anklet, particularly used in Hindi literature, classical dance forms, and poetic traditions. Often associated with rhythm, beauty, and elegance, the word evokes a more romantic or artistic essence of the anklet’s role in Indian culture. Nupurs, like payals, may feature tinkling bells or embossed gold details and are commonly worn during Bharatanatyam, Kathak, or Odissi performances to accentuate footwork and musicality.

Nose Jewelry

Nath

One of the most popular and iconic pieces of Indian nasal jewelry is the nath. It is usually donned on special occasions like a wedding or a festival. It includes an elaborate nose ring with diamonds, kundan, and pearls, and is normally hooked to the lock of hair or the ear with a ‘haram.’ The look, shape, and pattern of the nath may change significantly from one area of India to another, from the curved flower-shaped Maharashtrian nath to the chunky circle of the Punjabi bridal nath. The nath is normally an icon of beauty, tradition, and marital status.

Laung

Laung is a small and subtle nose stud that is usually clove-shaped; it is also called that because it literally means clove in Hindi. It suits an individual as it is worn on one side of the nose and is usually preferred for its elegance and beauty. Laung is usually made of individual gemstones and/or golden carvings and is a favorite among young ladies.

Bulak

The bulak is a heavier and more elaborate version of a nose ring traditionally worn in Uttarakhand, Himachal Pradesh, and parts of North India. Bulaks are usually suspended from the septum or lower cartilage, made from solid gold, and have bold etching or temple motifs, reflecting heritage and social standing. Though less common in modern urban fashion, this remains a strong cultural and ceremonial piece in regional Indian attire.

Craft Techniques & Materials

Kundan

 

Kundan Jewelry is a luxurious Indian art form where precious and semi-precious stones are intricately embossed on a canvas of gold leaf. Kundan Jewelry has traditionally been a part of the royal legacy in Rajasthan and Mughal India and is high on class and history itself. The craftsmanship reflects high class in detail and symmetry. Kundan Jewelry has become a major part of wedding wear par excellence!

Polki

 

Polki refers to jewelry made using uncut, natural diamonds, giving it a raw and antique appeal. Unlike modern cut diamonds, Polki stones retain their organic shape and are set in elaborate gold frames, usually accompanied by Jadau or Meenakari work. This traditional technique dates back to the Mughal era and is highly prized for its heritage value and unique shimmer. Polki rings, necklaces, and bridal sets often carry the weight of legacy and opulence.

Meenakari

 

Meenakari is the vibrant art of combining the enamels of various shades into intricate designs on the jewelry. It is normally done on the back of kundan jewelry, giving the jewelry a dual aesthetic value. Meenakari, which has Persian as well as Rajasthani origins, symbolizes the perfect amalgamation of fine arts as well as metallurgy.

Jadau

One of the hallmarks of traditional Indian craftsmanship is the technique of "Jadau." Jadau is the technique where stones like uncut diamonds, emeralds, rubies, or pearls are set in gold ornaments using no adhesive or soldering. Gold is heated to a melting point to wrap the stones in place. Jadau ornaments as part of Polki or Kundan works embody traditional craftsmanship characterizing the legacy of artisans.

Thewa

Thewa is a lesser-known yet beautiful Rajasthani art, where delicate strips of gold are intricately designed and merged onto colorful glass, typically in shades of red, green, and blue. The outcome is a shimmering, transparent look, typically portraying mythological/royal themes. Thewa is a jewelry art form, as well as an art collectible, because of its uniqueness, its intricate designs involving gold filigree work, as mentioned earlier.

Filigree

 

Filigree is a type of ornamented piece of jewelry made from ultra-fine twisted wires of gold. It is usually found in areas like Odisha and West Bengal. Filigree is all about intricacy and requires great precision. It is quite light and is generally used in making items like earrings, bangles, and pendants.

Antique Finish

 

An antique finish gives jewelry that worn, oxidized look, similar to the aging one sees in heritage or temple pieces. This fashion is very popularly used in South Indian temple jewelry, wherein gods, goddesses, and other traditional motifs are sculpted into gold and finished with darkened patina to outline detail and texture. Antique-finish jewelry offers a timeless, storytelling aesthetic that connects modern wearers to classical artistry.

The Bottom Line

Indian gold jewelry is not just about fashion. It’s about the rich heritage of gold jewelry, not just the term itself, but the feel it brings to one who understands the terminology used to describe the different jewelry pieces, ranging from the Maang Tikka to the Polki Ring.

It makes no difference if you're a bride-to-be trying to choose your trousseau, a collector researching designs from each area, or simply an unsuspecting person who's about to uncover the beauty of Indian accessories for the first time. The next time you look at a Rani Haar Necklace, don't just see gold. Look deeper, and you'll see history.